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Many thanks to David Brown, Chuck Martin, Geoff Hart and Sean Hower (and George M. offline) for their thoughtful comments and advice. I confess I was hoping to hear suggestions favoring Dreamweaver and I did. Acquiring Deva Tools or HTML-Indexer isn't impossible but will be a challenge.
Sean Hower said: "My gut tells me go with DW, but I like hand-coding." Me too!